The longer answer
Confirm it yourself in ten minutes:
- Find the outlet — the pop-up emitter or pipe end — and clear whatever's on it: matted grass clippings, mulch, a stuck lid. Rinse it. This alone fixes more "clogged lines" than anything else.
- Run a garden hose into the downspout adapter at the house for several minutes. Water exiting strong at the outlet: your line is fine and the problem is up in the gutter. Water backing up at the adapter or seeping from downspout seams: the run is blocked.
- Note the vintage. If the line is thin single-wall corrugated (you can crush it in your hand) or your house predates the 1980s (possible clay tile), a clog is often the symptom and a failing pipe is the disease.
What the fix involves: we pressure-flush the run with high-pressure water from the accessible ends and watch the outlet — the verdict comes from the flow. Most mud and leaf blockages clear. When flow won't restore, the pipe is crushed, bellied, or full of roots, and the honest fix is digging and replacing that section (or the run) with solid smooth-wall pipe at our published rates: $300–$700 per downspout run. Free assessment either way — if it's a five-minute emitter rinse, that's what we'll tell you.
Keep it from happening again: the line eats whatever your gutters feed it. Guards or regular cleaning upstream, an outlet you rinse a couple times a year, and continuous downhill slope (how every replacement section we build is laid) make a re-clog genuinely rare.
Not sure what your yard needs? Answer one question in the diagnostic, or price the fix in 60 seconds:
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